The Revival Cycles M-Unit Troubleshooting procedure
Motogadget has its own support team that can be reached via their website through the link below. If you have a bad Motogadget product that is under warranty and requires replacement it must be returned directly to Motogadget for exchange, dealers no longer handle warranty exchanges or returns. Please see the link below for details.
First things First, Download the most current version of the manual for your m-Unit. It is updated regularly and you can find the newest versions here. For specific issues use your CTRL+F search function with simple terms to locate specifics.
We’re here to help but it can not be stressed enough, you have to study this manual thoroughly. All too many of the questions we receive are covered in the manual.
Begin with the Battery Test:
Always being troubleshooting with a quick battery test. A low or malfunctioning battery can produce a variety of mysterious symptoms and it is wise to start by first confirming that your battery is in good functioning condition and eliminate that as a variable straight away.
Assuming you have a normal ignition switch, begin troubleshooting by making sure your battery is in good condition and hasn't developed a bad cell. Easiest test for this is to measure the voltage when the bike is off, when it is turned on, and when the starter button is pressed. Typical results for this type of test are ~13.2V bike off, ~12.4 Bike on, and more than 10v when cranking. If the voltage is dropping much below 10V during starting that is an indication the battery is shot or too small for the starter. If you can't actually fire the starter rightnow, you may need to bypass the m-Unit to get the starter to crank. This can be done by removing the start output wire and touching it to the positive battery terminal on the m-Unit. This should cause the starter solenoid to engage and the starter to crank.
A word of caution, LiFePO4 batteries like the Antigravity models have a lot of benefits over traditional lead acid but they are very intolerant of being drained below 9V and can be permanently damaged from even one occurrence. If you are testing your components off of your battery you need to make sure that it is kept charged up or use a lead acid for this purpose if you have one on hand.
If the bike sits for a stretch with no trickle charger a bad battery is definitely a possibility. The m-Unit does have a small small in the milliamp range that will over time pull a battery down so it is good practice to install a quick connect harness and keep your battery on a float charger when not in use for a length of time.
General m-Unit Troubleshooting
While m-Units to fail from time to time it’s rare and the overwhelming majority of problems we see involve improper installation or electrical faults. The only real tests we know how to do is to disconnect everything and verify the m-Unit is operating normally without any potential issues being created by the bike wiring. To do this disconnect all input and outputs, and then use a standard bulb like a turn signal as a test light for the outputs. It is important that the test light is an incandescent type, sometimes super efficient LED's can give odd results. The test light should be at least a watt or two, most incandescent turn signal bulbs are 5-20 watts and an old signal you have lying about makes for a perfect test light. Then use a jump wire to connect the lock input to turn on the m-Unit, verify the lights race around and stop with lock, aux 1 and ignition outputs lit.
At this point check each output by installing either a 2 wire button with one wire grounded and the other wire in the input, next instal your test light so that one wire is grounded and the other wire leads to the corresponding output. If any of the outputs cause the light to light up but the output LED isn't lit, that is a clear indication the m-Unit is malfunctioning. If the m-Unit passes this test, go through and verify that all the inputs operate the outputs as expected, and again verify outputs using the test light. Go through one at a time and eliminate as many variables as possible.
The reason you need to use a test light is that solid state electronics may show voltage even when the output is turned off. This is just the way silicon based devices work, although a voltmeter may show a voltage, once you connect a light bulb to it, there isn't any current and the output voltage will drop to zero. But you can't measure output voltage without having some type of resistive load on the output.
Remove all of your inputs and outputs.
Reseat the m-Unit main ground connection and check continuity with a meter. Contact surfaces must be clean corrosion free bare metal, don't rely on the continuity of the nuts and bolts to be enough and don't just assume that your contacts are good without testing them. Remember your ground wire must be large enough to match the amperage of your 12V+ cable to the m-Unit.
Reconnect the main 12V+ cable and check continuity with a meter.
Connect the ignition key switch to the main 12V+ and Lock input, then switch it on to confirm that the LED lights up.
One by one connect an INPUT wire to a test switch and then it's corresponding OUTPUT to a 5-20 watt test bulb, activate the switch and confirm that the m-Unit LEDs light up correctly. If it does not light up or the LEDs indicate you have a ground short investigate that circuit to find your issue. (If using the m-Button then install just the one wire into the Kill input terminal.)
Software/Firmware, Bluetooth, programming troubleshooting:
There’s not a lot of additional advice that we can provide on this outside of what is provided in the manual. Make sure that you are operating on the latest firmware. Follow the set up instructions precisely beginning at section 9.2.
Problems with the m-button tend to manifest in one of two ways.
One or more control functions not responding:
This could be the result of a bad switch, bad wire connection, or an irreparable internal failure in the m-Button. Due to the m-Buttons digital CAN-BUS technology you can not test for continuity in your switches. In order to test a switch or it’s circuit to determine if the switch is bad, there’s a wiring issue or the m-Button is malfunctioning you must perform a process of elimination.
- Test for continuity between the switch and the m-Button, check wiring for damage.
- Test switch for continuity when pressed.
- If the above tests are good it is an indication that there is an issue with the m-Button.
Phantom switch activations:
The most common issue that we encounter is the result of improper installation. If you have an m-Button and are experiencing phantom switch activations this is very likely due to electromagnetic interference. If your m-Button is not as stated in the manual, inside the handlebars this is a probable cause for your issues. Proper installation may solve the issue, then again, if your ignition system if throwing off enough EMI it may not be enough. If you are still experiencing symptoms you may need to confirm that you are using either suppressor core wires or suppressor plug caps and if you are still experiencing these symptoms removal of the m-Button is the most prudent solution.
Proper Handlebar Installation:
- Pre-drill holes for internal bar wiring, with one hole at the bottom center. Be sure to clean up edges to avoid wire chafing, we recommend using wire loom to protect the tiny wires.,
- Run left side control wires from right bar end,
- Run Green wire and m-Button Black ground to center hole,
- Insert m-Button in right bar end
- Feed right side control wires through hole
- Feed all left and right side ground wires through bars to center hole. Solder all ground wires to m-Button main ground and run one ground wire back to the m-Unit main ground terminal to ensure best continuity.
Hopefully one of the above methods got you all sorted out. These are the same methods we use here in the shop, there's no secrets we've left out. In our experience 99% of the time the issue is something to do with a bad battery, a poor electrical contact or a malfunctioning m-Button. On a rare occasion we do hear from people who's symptoms suggest a bad m-Unit but before you decide to return your m-Unit to Motogadget for testing run through these procedures a second or even a third time just to make sure you're not wasting time and money shipping your m-Unit to Germany and back.
Thanks for your support!