A downloadable PDF version of these instructions is available at the bottom of the page.
This is an updated approach to the old method demonstrated by Stefan on our Youtube channel. The tolerances for this line are very tight, as they should be, the older method is more difficult and often requires more than one attempt. With this new approach, I have 100% success with every go at it.
1. Trim one end of the line making sure to cut a clean straight edge. Use the sharpest side cutters you have. We’ve had the best results using a set of Park Tool C-10 Cable cutters, these are intended for bicycles but they are perfect for building cables as well as Goodridge hydraulic lines.
2. After trimming the hose use a set of pliers or the crimp portion of your C-10’s to squeeze the hose back into round.
3. Measure 8mm from the end of the hose and mark it, I use my calipers preset to 8mm and use the sharp edge to poke a mark at 8mm in the sheath. Next, cut through the outer sheathing at the mark and remove the end. For this part, I like to use a sharp set of scissors to cut the outer sheath while leaving the wire braid intact.
4. Once this is done you’re ready to install the first fitting. If you have you have Herculean hand strength like Stefan you can do this as he does free handed in the old video. As a mere mortal my preference is to set it up in my bench vise using a doubled-up shop rag to help hold the line while not crushing or marring it. If you over tighten with this arraignment the rag may imprint on the sheathing as well so pay attention to your pressure and adjust as needed. I line the hose up so that just a tiny bit more than the exposed wire braid is poking out.
5. Now that you have the hose in place take the fitting for your Master Cylinder end and slip the banjo collet over the end of the hose.
6. Take a look at the end of the fitting and notice how the 2mm taper is not threaded. Use a pick or tool and slip it into the end of the line and expand the first couple of mm. This will allow you to get a better bite as you try to get the fitting started. I like to do this will the collet in place, you can do it before but sometimes it will make slipping the collet over the expanded sheathing difficult and it’s easy to shred your fingertips on the wire braid.
7. Now is the moment of truth; start with the fitting for your Master Cylinder. Insert the fitting into the collet being sure to get the taper into the hose end. Stabilize the collet with one hand and use substantial force to push the fitting deeper as you twist clockwise. Repeat this action and you should after a few twists begin to feel the threads bite. Continue threading in while providing pressure to guide the fitting in.
Tip #1 If the threads won’t grab back out the fitting and try using the pick to expand the line a bit more and reattempt. If you botch this step and the Teflon tube is shredded trim the line and start over. This isn’t supposed to be easy, these are brake lines after all and the tolerances have to be very tight.
Tip # 2 As you thread in the fitting don’t screw it all the way in. Leave a couple of twists and these will allow you to align the fitting in exactly the right position during your final assembly.
Tip #3 About 90% of the time as you approach the end of the threads the collet will pull away from the end of the sheathing about a mm exposing the wire braid. So long as this is only a mm or so it’s of no concern and we’ll address it with some heat shrink tubing towards the end of the assembly.
8. Mockup the hose to the Master cylinder then run the hose as you intend it and mark where to make your next cut. Be sure to provide enough length for so the line has room to move with the forks or swing arm. Also, make sure that your line is not in a pinch point.
9. Slip two pieces of heat shrink over the line, 20mm lengths of 8mm diameter is a good size. You need this on the line before you install both fittings. If you’re using the clear brake hose or polished fittings consider using clear heat shrink for this.
10. Slip the heat shrink over the collet and heat it so that it seals the transition between the collet and sheathing.
11. Now repeat steps 1 through 7 for the caliper side.
12. The final assembly step is to use the remaining twists on each fitting to adjust the hydraulic line positioning so that the hose angles are ideal and without kinks.